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Red, White, and… Blue?
Labor Day has always raised mixed feelings for me. In my
early childhood it meant the end of the summer and that the school grind would
start again very soon. Then, over the years, the term was elongated so Labor
Day meant we had a holiday the first few weeks we were in session! But now that
we’re all grown up and those of us who are in school are there by conscious
decision, Labor Day is a long weekend to kick back and enjoy the fruits of our
labor. So this month we celebrate
our brothers and sisters who are toiling in the vineyards in our own backyard
as we drink American wine!
Although wine is made in almost every state in this fine
country, there are some regions that have garnered worldwide appreciation.
Known for it’s robust Cabernets and creamy Chardonnays, California is the most
well known area for wine. Although
only one-third the size of France, California produces more wine than Australia
and is the fourth largest producer in the world with more than 1200 wineries in
the area. After the wine renaissance in the mid-20th century,
Californian wines won massive acclaim by beating French reds and whites in the
1976 Judgment of Paris competition (no small feat!). The state is divided into
four major areas with smaller AVAs within each: North Coast includes Napa,
Sonoma, Mendocino and Lake County, Central Coast encompasses Santa Barbara,
Santa Ynez, and Paso Robles (amongst others), South Coast’s most notable AVA is
Temecula, and Central Valley is where the Sierra Foothills and Lodi AVAs are
found. There are no government mandated grape varieties in California and the
land is perfectly suited to growing a number of varietals, resulting in the
production of almost every kind of wine imaginable. The most important element
to picking a wine that you’ll like is to know whether the winery is an Old
World-style producer or a New World. This is completely up to the winemaker and
simply has to do with the way the wine is made. New World producers tend toward
the use of lots of new oak, maximum blending, and high alcohol (by allowing the
grapes to hang on the vine longer, concentrating the sugars). This is for you,
all of you creamy, buttery Chardonnay lovers! On the other hand, Old World
winemakers take their lead from processes used for centuries in Europe: early
harvest, neutral oak, low alcohol. The basic premise for Old World style
winemaking is to let the grape speak for itself with very little winemaker
influence. A general rule of thumb to distinguish Old from New is to look at
the alcohol content; if it’s above14%, chances are good it in the New World
style, below 14% is probably Old World.
Washington State produces the second most wine in the states
with 600 wineries and eleven AVAs including Columbia Valley and Walla Walla
Valley. The first grape introduced by Italian immigrants was Cinsault, and in
the 1950s wineries like Chateau Ste. Michelle started growing and producing
Riesling and Chardonnay, and since then, Merlot, Cabernet, and Syrah have been
spotlighted in the area. Wines from this area are known for their typicity of
varietal flavor with firm, ripe tannins and bright fruit flavors. Paul Gregutt
from the Wine Enthusiast says that Washington wines “have the potential to
combine the structure and polish of French wines with the ripeness and fruit of
California wines.” (The best of both worlds!) With the unique geographical
location, Washington produces nearly every style of wine including rosé,
sparkling, fruit, fortified, still, late harvest dessert and, when conditions
are right, ice wine. If you’re unfamiliar with Washington wines, pick up a
bottle of Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling or Merlot or try the L’Ecole No. 41.
Finally, my favorite region in the States: Oregon. The most notable
AVAs are Willamette Valley and Yamhill Valley, producing mostly Pinot Noir and
Pinot Gris. Oregon sits on the same longitude as the French region of Burgundy,
and has many geographical and climactic similarities, making the Pinot Noir
produced here amongst the best in the world. In fact, in the 1980s the state’s
governor paid an official visit to Burgundy and a prominent French winemaking
family bought land in Oregon to produce wine, strengthening the ties between
the two regions. A threat of the root louse phylloxera prompted Oregonians to
turn to a resistant rootstock and also toward a more “green” approach to
winemaking, leading the world into a new era of environmentally friendly wine production.
King Estate makes a fabulous Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris that I highly recommend,
as does Willamette Valley Vineyards. Pick up a bottle today, you won’t be disappointed! |
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A Rosé By Any Other Name…
I love pink wine. There. I’ve said it.
I know many of my dear readers just gasped and nearly choked on their vino hearing me say such seemingly appalling words. Angel is a wine snob, right? How could she possibly like pink wine? What is the world coming to when the Spanish Wine Queen admits a love for pink wine? Well, here’s a caveat that will regain your trust: I abhor White Zinfandel.
Now you’re confused. Isn’t White Zin the only kind of pink wine? No, I say, no! I avoid that dirt cheap, sickly sweet excuse for wine like the plague! And actually, the first White Zin as we know it today was a mistake! Sutter Home had been producing a dry White Zinfandel for a few years and their 1975 vintage experienced a “stuck fermentation,” a process that occurs when the yeast dies before all the sugar is consumed, leaving residual sugar and producing a very sweet wine. Imagine taking a glass of red wine and dumping a few spoonfuls of table sugar into it and you’ve got the equivalent of a wine that’s been stuck. And although some wines that are made by accident the first time are ones that I thorough enjoy (i.e. Sherry), White Zin is not in that category.
So what pink wine do I enjoy, you ask? Dry rosés, of course! Rosé can be made from any red grape, is fermented in the same way, and is pink because the juice is left on the skin for a very short period. In France, rosés are most commonly made from Syrah, Grenache or Mourvedre in the Cotes-du-Rhone, Loire, and Languedoc. Anjou is a region in south central France that is known for its medium-sweet rosés made primarily from Grolleau and is meant to be drunk young, as are most pink wines. For those who want to transition away from sweet pinks, try the Remy Pannier d’Anjou, delicious and affordable! For those who already know the joys of a dry rosé, try the Domaine Joguet Chinon, my good friend Greg Horton’s favorite pink of the season and well worth the cost.
Some rosés will age for quite some time and mature into wines that are incredibly complex and intense. I had the pleasure of having dinner with the winemaker from Lopez de Heredia who poured a 12 year old rosé that tasted of caramel, rose petals, orange zest, and age. Although difficult to find, I do highly recommend an ancient, properly stored rosé made from Tempranillo.
And let’s not forget rosé with bubbles! Sparkling wine with a delicate pink tint is truly the wine for every occasion. With a little more depth and character than a traditional white sparkling, these rosés are perfect for an apertif, with a meal, as a digestif, or any other time! Banfi makes a wine called Rosa Regale from a little known Italian grape called Brachetto. It is an incredibly unique, playful wine that’s semi-sweet and perfect for a hot day. Avinyo also produces a much lighter cava rosé that is ideal with chocolate.
So next time you want something cool and refreshing and new, skip the White Zin section and try a dry pink instead. I know you’ll be pleasantly surprised. |
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The "Other" White Wine
It seems that white wine, underappreciated as is, has been
lumped into two categories: Chardonnay and everything else. And while I do like
Chardonnay (in the Burgundian style, unoaked, subtle, elegant and light) there
are far too many wineries (notably in California and Australia) that over-oak
Chardonnay to mask the poor quality of the grapes. These mass-produced, high
alcohol, melted-butter-in-a-glass wines are atrocious, and just not my style.
So this month, we drink the “other” white wine.
Oh faithful readers, you know my penchant for all things
Iberian and that I could ramble on for days about all the [virtues] of the
wines from Portugal and Spain. But I’m going to restrain myself and suggest
only one white from this region, and it is by far the most underappreciated
wine in the world and the one that I love most: Sherry. From an area on the
southern coast of Spain come three different styles of sherry: fino,
amontillado, and oloroso, and another style of fino from a subregion within Jerez
called Manzanilla. It is fermented in old oak barrels that are filled only
three-quarters full to allow the yeast to form a protective cap over the wine,
sealing it from oxygen and allowing the carbon dioxide to escape. When
fermentation is complete, the wine is put into a solera system and aged, in
some cases, for decades. When it’s hot and sunny there is nothing more
refreshing than a chilled glass of fino. Crisp, dry, refreshing and slightly salty,
this wine is ideal on its own or paired with shellfish and seafood. Look for El
Maestro Sierra, La Cigarrera, or La Gitana.
One of my all time favorite “other” whites hails from
Alsace, a tiny region in eastern France near the border of Germany. Due to
strong Germanic influence, this area produces wonderfully dry Rieslings and
Gewurztraminers. But Alsatians don’t allow the grapes to hang on the vines as
long as Germans, resulting in a wine that is dry, crisp, floral, and spicy, not
syrupy sweet like some late-harvest Rieslings from Germany. Alsace is bordered
by the Vosges Mountains in the west and the Rhine River in the east, creating a
barrier from maritime influence and providing the vines a much sunny, warm and
dry climate. This climate is also
key to producing the sparkling wine Crémant d’Alsace, a full bodied, silky
smooth and creamy that I love to drink in lieu of dessert, or any other time I
can find a good bottle. Look for
Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Hugel & Fils, and Maison Trimbach.
In this warm weather a great “other” white wine is Torrontes.
From the high elevation Calchaquies Valleys in the far north of Argentina, torrontes
is a gorgeous wine that is characterized by distinctive peach and apricot
aromas on the nose. Torrontes is also grown in Galicia in Spain but its DNA
relation to the vines in Argentina is unknown. In fact, even though Argentine
torrontes has been linked to the Malvasian group of grapes, which originated in
the Eastern Mediterranean, it is unclear how the variety arrived in Argentina.
Most believe the vines were carried by Spanish colonists, possibly missionaries
bringing so much more than just the Good Word. Don’t be surprised when you pop
a bottle of this, it is slightly effervescent and will tingle your tongue with
vivacity! Reach for a bottle on a hot summer day: Crios, Yellow & Blue
(also a certified organic producer and less than $10 for a liter), and Alamos.
Spice up this hot summer with some new white wines. Skip
that chardonnay section, go to the “Other Whites” rack and try something new!
Go ahead, I dare you. |
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mmm, mmm, Malbec
Much like the versatility of the little black dress, Malbec
is a grape that is at home in almost every wine growing country in the world
and can easily pair with just about every cuisine imaginable. I know I’ve been
talking a lot about barbeque wines lately, but hey, it’s summer! And Malbec is
another of my favorite bottles to grab for smoky meats and easy drinking on
these warm summer days.
While it’s a common misconception that its origin is South
America, Malbec is actually one of the five original Bordeaux grapes. (The
other four are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc.)
And although it’s been grown in Bordeaux for centuries, it is now most commonly
used as a blending grape to add depth, roundness, and a bit of vegetation to
the big, bold grapes of the area. Bordeaux itself does not produce a full
Malbec, so you won’t really be able to taste the grape outside of a blend. But
the small region of Cahors in the south of France is the only to be permitted
by AOC laws to produce a full (70%+) Malbec. These are some of the most
intriguing examples of the grape’s ability to showcase the characteristics of
the terrior and were thusly called “the black wine of Lot” and “liquor of
fire.” In fact, Malbec from Cahors
was present at the wedding of Eleanor of Aquitaine to Henry II of England, was
the official table and sacramental wine of Pope John XXII and was adored by
Peter I of Russia. Definitely a wine worth drinking in my book! Try the Clos la
Coutale, my favorite for the price and the quality.
Malbec was carried to Argentina in the 19th
century by French agronomist Miguel Pouget and has since become the national
variety. These berries are smaller and grow in tighter, smaller clusters than
their French counterparts, suggesting that it is a Malbec clone that was
extinct in France after the phylloxera epidemic. Malbecs from Argentina are known for their lush, velvety
texture and big, fruity mouth feel. While they don’t have the strong tannic
structure of their French counterparts, they do show similar aging abilities
and can be cellared for 5-10 years or more. The leading producing regions in
Argentina include Salta, San Juan, Buenos Aires, and La Rioja (not to be
confused with Spain!). The cuisine
of Argentina is based largely on big slabs of meat roasted over open flames
that perfectly accompany a big Malbec. While I think it’s hard to go wrong with
just about any Malbec from Argentina, my favorites are Montes, Catena, Crios,
and La Posta.
Drinking red wine in the summer can be tricky. The heat
makes most reach for a chilled white or a frosty beer. In fact, I’m drinking an
icy cold beer as I write these words. But it has a lot to do with the
temperature at which we’ve grown accustomed to serving red wine. Rule of thumb
is to serve white wine out of the fridge and red wine at room temperature,
which is much warmer in the summer. These guidelines have their roots in French
wine service, where wine is stored in cellars that are significantly cooler. To reach that ideal temperature, try
putting your red in the refrigerator an hour before you plan on popping it open,
then it’ll be perfect on the patio with your barbeque! |
Malbec, the little black dress of wine |
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Que Sirah Sirah
Dear April, thank you for your showers, for now we are given
May flowers. All the flora and
fauna are opening their eyes and peeking out at the bright sun that is finally
warming the earth again. We’ve
ventured out of hibernation and are airing our pasty white limbs in the
sunlight for the first time of the year.
The bar-b-que has been dusted off and fired up and the cool breeze makes
every night a perfect night for outdoor activity. So in honor of the arrival of
spring (and my lovely parent’s 30th wedding anniversary), we drink
Petite Sirah!
There are many misconceptions about Petite Sirah, including
the correct spelling. The spelling ‘Petite Syrah’ refers to a small cluster of
syrah grapes, and ‘Petit Sirah’ and ‘Petit Syrah’ are just plain misspelled,
courtesy of early California vintners hoping to gain some sort of edge on the
market but really serving only to confuse the consumer. Although there is still no consistency
of spelling, the officially recognized way is ‘Petite Sirah.’
The actual grape that comprises the wine we know as Petite
Sirah is also somewhat of a mystery to most. Although commonly confused with Syrah, Petite Sirah is
actually a French grape known as Durif, named after Dr. Francois Durif, a
‘handsome man with a penchant for white suits and broad brimmed hats.’ A
botanist at the University of Montpellier, Dr. Durif was working in a vineyard
planted with Peloursin when he discovered the unique vine, which he named for
himself. Although it was unknown at the time of discovery, recent DNA testing
has revealed that it was indeed Syrah pollen that crossed with Peloursin to
create Durif.
There may be plenty of confusion around the technicalities
of this wine, but what there is no confusion about is the taste. The bouquet offers herbal and black
pepper notes with hints of cocoa and tobacco. The palate follows through with
intense black and blue fruit like blueberries and boysenberries, plums,
eucalyptus, smoke and meat. These wines are perfect for bar-b-ques in early spring;
they stand up nicely to grilled meats and big, thick sauces, like my dad’s
awesome whiskey bbq sauce. (Ask him for the recipe, he just may give it to
you…) Wines to look for: Concannon, Foppiano, David Bruce, Turley, and Bogle.
P.S. I love you… |
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Best Bang for the Buck
The higher the cost, the better the wine. A common misconception that I urge everyone to shed as you would a baby blue polyester leisure suit. And don't confine yourself to the idea that the only inexpensive wines on the market are our childhood favorites like Boone's Farm and Arbor Mist. After tasting thousands of wines to develop wine lists that are unique, diverse, and value driven, I've found it unnecessary to shell out a ton of money to get a great bottle of wine. Actually, I very rarely spend more than $10 or $12 on a 'weekday' wine and have yet to sacrifice quality! This is how I get the best bang for my buck:
As most of my dear readers know, my go-to country for all things wine is Spain. This is in large part because of the high quality-to-cost ratio the Spanish provide. Modernization of wineries and vineyard management is something Spain has largely rejected, maintaining age-old traditions and methods to create honest, expressive wines that showcase the terroir and varietal without too much human interference. Aside from producing some of the best wines in the world, this method also keeps the cost low. For a tropical, refreshing white try an albariño or treixadura, or a blend of the two from Rias Biaxas. I've also found that Navarra is a great region for pinot noir reminiscent light reds made from garnacha and tempranillo, Wall's Wine Bin has one of my favorites called Ochoa. And although Ribera del Duero and Rioja have a reputation for their pricey, aged wines, the younger reds under $15 are quite delectable and ready to drink straight away. Now, I know it's not quite Spain, but while we're on the Iberian Peninsula, Portugal produces a fabulous, crisp white called vinho verde that is slightly effervescent and made to be enjoyed within a year, and is usually a lot less than $15.
Modern technology is a beautiful thing. Although I do love the tradition and the age old practices of winemaking, there have been some huge advances in closures and packaging in the past ten years or so that have enabled wineries to spend less in production and offer great wines for a fraction of the cost. So keep an open mind when I suggest there are very good wines that are sold in boxes. Yes, boxes! Some may call it blasphemy, but I say they haven't seen the light! Box wines are great when I only want a glass and don't want to open a whole bottle. The vacuum sealed plastic bag prevents the wine from oxidizing and keeps it fresh for far longer than an open bottle. So turn your nose up at boxed wines no more! Try Black Box, Bota, and Pinot Evil. Jug wines have also come a long way in the past several years and although they won't stay fresh as long as the bag-in-box variety, they provide an excellent option for parties and large gatherings on a budget. I really love the Three Thieves and Martin Ray's Red. And keep screw-caps open as an option, but remember they aren't meant to age very long so pick a young one.
A rosé by any other name would smell as sweet. One of the best all around value wines, rosés from around the world are cheap quaffers. Most dry pink wines are meant to be enjoyed fairly young and fresh, although some, notably from Rioja, will age for decades. I love rosés from the Basque Country and if you can find a rosé txakolina, I highly suggest you take home as much as you can carry! They are slightly bubbly, crispy crunchy and bursting with strawberry. Absolutely perfect for a spring afternoon or warm summer evening (and very affordable)! Ameztoi and Gurratxaga make my two favorite rosé txakolinas. A short jaunt north of Basque in Southern Rhone is a little region called Tavel that produces gorgeous pink wines that are a little more full and round on the palate, think strawberries and cream, and all for less than $15! Try the Trinquevedel Tavel Rosé, great wine, outstanding price. Pinks from South America are really starting to come into their own, and with their introduction comes a smart price-great bottles for under $10. These rosés, usually made from malbec, tend to be a bit bolder and will drink great on its own or with food as hearty as bar-b-que. Try the Crios Rosé or the Yellow+Blue (also an alternatively packaged wine).
So don't despair, even in these trying economic times, and with taxes due right around the corner, there's no need to sacrifice good wine! And that makes me feel quite wealthy. |
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Green Wine
Green. When I heard the wine theme for March I experienced a brief, and oh so eloquently termed, brain fart. As that vacant expression began to settle on my face and the question mark above my head grew comically large, the neurons finally started firing and 'green' wine associations began to fly through my head like a tornado through a trailer park. It was all I could do to get to a pen and paper and jot them down. In fact, the more I think about this theme, the more I love it and think there will be an amazing array of really interesting wines that 'green' describes perfectly.
The first 'green' wine to come to mind is the wine that's grown environmentally friendly. Organic, biodynamic, or sustainable. Even though the three concepts have similar qualities, these words are not interchangeable. Organic farming is the basis from which biodynamic and sustainable farming grow. Organic farming excludes or strictly limits the use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, food additives, and genetically modified organisms and relies on crop rotation, green manure, compost, and biological pest control to maintain soil productivity. Many wineries worldwide have been farming organically for decades, although you won't find 'organic' anywhere on the label as the process for becoming certified organic is lengthy and costly. Wines to look for include Fetzer Vineyards, Bonterra Wines, Casa de la Ermita, Raptor Ridge Winery, and Torbreck. Biodynamic farming is a form of organic farming with homeopathic composts that treats farms as unified and individual organisms, emphasizing balancing the holistic development and interrelationship of the soil, plants, and animals as a self-nourishing system without external inputs. An interesting method of farming, biodynamic methods include filling the horn of a cow with manure and burying it in the ground in the autumn and recovering in the spring to be mixed with water and sprayed over the crops. Wines to look for are Bergstrom, Adelina, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, and Maison Chapoutier. Sustainable agriculture integrates the concepts of environmental stewardship, farm profitability, and prosperous farming communities. The goal of sustainable agriculture is to promote the long-term health of the land instead of depleting it for short-term gain. Vineyards that adhere to these practices include Jekel, Chalk Knoll Vineyard, Cloudy Bay, Craggy Range and Whitehaven.
'Green' is also a descriptor for the age of a wine. Not always a complimentary term, 'green' can be used to describe a wine that is too young to be enjoyed. Sometimes a green wine is bottled too early and has that fizzy feeling on the tongue, and sometimes it just needs a few more years in the bottle to reach its full potential. While 95% of the time this is a wine to avoid, there are some wines that are made to be drunk young. These wines are made using a fermentation process called carbonic maceration; a process that speeds fermentation. Beaujolais Nouveau is the most recognized intentionally green wine. It is fermented only a few weeks and officially released for sale the third Thursday of November, just 6-8 weeks after harvest. Vino Novello is Italy's young wine available for sale November 6. Spain's version, Carbonica, stays in the bottle a bit longer and is usually released after the new year. Be adventurous, try these wines! But be sure you drink it within the year, or as soon as you get home from the store.
With my penchant for all things Iberian I cannot pass this opportunity to talk about Portugal's green wine: Vinho Verde. It literally translates Green Wine and is one of the most refreshing white wines in the world. Produced in the Minho region in the far north of the country, Vinho Verdes are produced with mostly Trejadura and Alvarinho and generally have low alcohol levels (between 9 and 11%). As with most green wines, these are meant to be drunk within the first year, after that the slight effervescence disappears. These wines are ideal with shellfish and seafood, their crisp acidity and slightly salty palate are a perfect pair with fare from the ocean. Try Muralhas De Moncao, Quinta da Aveleda, and Casal Garcia. |
Trajadura grapes in Minho, Portugal |
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Romantic Reds
Flowers, chocolates, candy hearts and romantic evenings. Nothing says February like Valentine's Day. And, at the risk of sounding like a jaded critic I admit that I'm not a big fan of the holiday. There's so much pressure to perform and give the perfect gift that shows exactly how much you love your partner; but what if red roses are too cliche for her, or she's not eating chocolates per her New Year's resolution, and what in the world is a romantic gift for a guy? So my solution to this dilemma (as the food and wine lover that I am) is to prepare a luscious meal and pair it with romantic wines. Then my honey and I can spend time together in our own kitchen, listening to our favorite music, creating a fabulous meal that's assembled exactly how we want, and drinking the perfect wine (at 1/3 the price of a restaurant).
There are several romantic reds that spring to my mind when envisioning an amorous evening. To begin, a silky smooth pinot noir arouses the palate with subtle notes of lavender perfume, black cherry, moist earth, and a hint of indulgent tobacco. The cool, wet climate in Oregon produces some of the most beautiful pinots in the states, and are often value priced. Some of my favorites are: Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, La Crema Pinot Noir, Parker Station Pinot Noir But my most beloved pinot region is also it's birthplace: Burgundy. These wines are deliciously complex and deeply intriguing, and also my most luxurious splurge wine. Cote d'Or, Volnay, Gevrey-Chambertin, and Pommard are subregions within Burgundy that are prized pinot producers whose wines have aging potential of more than 15 years. Andre Tchelistcheff eloquently summarized this sinfully delicious vino when he proclaimed that "God made Cabernet Sauvignon whereas the devil made Pinot noir." Celebrate with Jean Claude Boisset '02 Pommard 1er Cru, Olivier Leflaive '03 Volnay 1er Cru, Jean Raphet '97 Gevrey-Chambertin.
While the sauce is simmering and the meat is braising, a bottle of seductive Nero d'Avola begs to be tasted. Although this wine has great aging potential, I prefer the younger, lighter style that has recently been introduced to the American market. The Sicilian gem has succulent, juicy purple plum and spicy black pepper notes and is perfect while munching on crudites or bruschetta. I recently tried the '03 Maretima Nero d'Avola and was greatly impressed with the quality and the price. I highly recommend it.
As we sit down to enjoy our mouth-watering feast, a delectable malbec is what I crave. From the fertile hills of Mendoza, Argentine malbecs are voluptuous, inky black, lip-stainingly lavish wines. This racy red with notes of white pepper, ripe black and blue berries, green bell peppers and leather is perfect with red meat. My favorites are: '07 La Posta 'Pizzella Vineyard' and Antigal. Although malbec has flourished in and is most commonly associated with Argentina, it is a native grape of France. Mainly used as a blending grape in most parts of France, the small Southern region of Cahors produces a full malbec that is enticingly herbaceous with exhilarating coffee and exotic spice notes.Try the: Domaine de Fages, Chateau des Cloutous, or Clos la Coutale.
And the ambrosial conclusion to a sensual meal: dessert. I'm almost as much of a chocoholic as I am a wine-o so my finale to this meal would definitely be concocted of a fine dark chocolate and some sweet ripe strawberries. And there are few pairings that beat an old vine zinfandel and fine chocolate. The jammy, mouthwatering, big fruited dry red zinfandels are a titillating culmination of a romantic evening. Look for zins from California by Seghesio 'Sonoma,' Cosentino 'Cigar Zin," and Joet Gott California Zinfandel. |
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The Joy of Spain
Ah, Spain, a country in love with its food, its traditions, and its wine. From the burly, gruff giants of the Basque country to the quiet, humble farmers and ranchers of Ribera Sacra to the nobles and gypsies of Jerez, Spaniards pour their wine with pride, and all claim theirs to be the best of the country.
To better understand these remarkable wines, consider some facts: with over 2.9 million acres planted with vines, Spain is the widest planted country in the world, but it is the third largest wine producer (behind France and Italy). So more vines yield less fruit, which in the wine world is a great thing. Spain has also been producing wine for centuries longer than its more prestigious neighbor to the north, France. And actually, when the root disease phylloxera plagued French vineyards, many winemakers crossed the border into Spain, where the Pyrenees Mountains halted the spread of the disease and preserved Spanish vines, making them some of the oldest vines in the world.
Spanish wines have been steadily gaining popularity in the States, and thanks to their relative obscurity, they are truly value wines. Great quality, affordable prices. (My favorite!) Here's the low down on a few popular regions and some wines to look for:
Rioja
This is the largest producing region in Spain, known mostly for its reds made mostly from tempranillo, although you will see an occasional bottle of white Rioja made from garnacha blanca, malvasia, viura, or a combination of the three. The white Riojas are crisp, pleasantly acidic, and slightly viscous. A great wine for people who are fond of un-oaked chardonnays, they go well with all foods and are usually very affordable. Look for Ostatu Blanco or Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia. The reds from Rioja are the country's pride and joy, often referred to as the Bordeaux of Spain, these wines are aged longer than other areas and can become quite pricy. Often compared to France's pinot noir and Italy's sangiovese, the reds have a subtle elegance and earthiness that make them perfect to drink alone or with a meal. Look for Arbanta, Luberri Seis, Marques de Riscal, or Bodegas Muga.
Ribera del Duero
One of my favorite regions of Spain! These red wines are deeply concentrated, fleshy, ripe and structured without being aggressive, tannic, or alcoholic. The ability of Ribera del Duero wines to be both packed with fruit yet refined places them among the greatest wines of Spain. In fact, two Ribera del Duero wines- Unico and Pesquera- are among the most outstanding red wines anywhere in the world. The major grape is also tempranillo, but the difference in teruna (terroir) makes the wines markedly different from their Rioja neighbors. Look for Vina Sastre, Pesquera, Bodegas Mauro, and Vega Sicilia.
Penedes
This is bubble country! Most wine from the region just outside the bustling city of Barcelona are cavas (Spanish sparkling). Made from the macabeo, parrellada, and xarel-lo grapes, these sparkling wines are crisp and refreshing, dry and exciting. These wines are perfect for gifts, parties, aperitifs, meals, and every other occasion imaginable. Most are moderately priced, making them an even better venture! Look for Avinyo, Segura Viudas, and (if you really want to splurge) Juve y Camps.
Rias Baixas
Albarino rules in the seaside region of Rias Baixas. On the western coast of Spain north of Portugal, the whites from this area taste of the salty sea air and tropical fruits. Ideal alongside fish, shellfish, mussels, and anything from the ocean, these wines are stunning in complexity and elegance. Look for Condessa de Legado, Nessa, and (my favorite) Do Ferriero- who also makes a fabulous wine from 200 year old albarino vines that is absolutely fabulous. |
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A Little About Me
My parents joke that I had wine in my bottle as a child. And, for as long as I can remember, wine has always been an almost revered aspect of life and an essential element of dining. We made batches in the basement from whatever fruit we could get our hands on; some turned out great (the blackberry in particular), and some, well, let's just say that there's a very good reason you never see satsuma wine on a store shelf. But it was always a learning experience and a good time with the family.
I've always believed that if I could find something I love doing and make it pay, I'd never have to work a day in my life. And I'd always been the dessert girl during our family cooking nights, so I entered the restaurant industry as a pastry chef. I worked my way through the kitchen and eventually into the front of the house, quickly escalating from server to manager and as soon as I graduated from college was asked to be on the opening team of a new restaurant by the owner of TerraLuna in Oklahoma City. There I learned all the ins and outs of restaurant operation, everything from staffing to inventory to pricing. It was an eye opening experience and I realized I loved the industry but wanted to specialize in wine.
I was then lured away from the TerraLuna group to a new project: the premier wine bar of Oklahoma City. The men I worked with were visionaries, creating a new and edgy concept based on cool new wines without pretention. We worked tirelessly to educate the staff about everything wine- regions, grapes, countries, soils, alcohol content, food pairings, everything related to production and consumption and opened the coolest wine bar in Oklahoma City: Bin 73. I eventually was handed control of the wine list and realized that that was truly where my passion lay. At this time I also had the opportunity to work at a specialty wine and spirits store called Seasonal Cellars where I learned the retail side of wine.
In order to become more specialized and gain exposure to a larger market, I moved to Los Angeles to be on the opening team of a Spanish wine and tapas bar called Bar Pintxo as the General Manager and Wine Director. Our wine list was the talk of the town and received accolades from the LA Times and even Wine Spectator. Our success was unparalleled and after being dubbed the "Spanish WIne Queen of LA" I was invited to Spain to meet the producers of the wines of which I was so fond. That trip confirmed and even heightened my passion for all things Spain, but most especially the wine. I wanted to recreate the tradition and love that goes into those wines.
Through Bar Pintxo and our sister restaurant Joe's, I met a wine consultant and winemaker named Chris Keller. We became fast friends and when he discovered our palates and philosophy of wine were almost identical, he invited me to his winery in Santa Barbara, Paige 23. I eventually became his protege and learned how to make and sell wine on a commercial scale. We are currently in the process of creating another label focused more on our old-world style wines.
I am currently working on my Sommelier Certification and am constantly striving to bring new wines and new experiences to everyone I meet. |
at Vina Sastre in Ribera del Duero, January 2009 |
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